We should probably get this out of the way now – we love Nomos. We love its designs, its almost-total reliance on in-house manufacturing, that its Glashutte base is the town’s old train station, while its design studio is in Berlin – to keep its finger on the pulse.
It just seems that, so far, it can do no wrong in terms of its launches and this Metro Datum Gangreserve is a case in point.
The Metro design launched last year at Basel and this is the version with the power reserve indicator (there is one without as well).
Designed by Mark Braun, who also has his own design studio, which has overseen projects for brands such as La Redoute and wallpaper.
Braun is all about, in his words, designing “things so that they seem familiar to people, even though they are new”, and that is exactly what he’s done with this Nomos.
The dial is an exercise in precision. The hands have this lovely tapering at the end, which allows them to indicate the time without cluttering the outer ring.
This watch also contains Nomos’s swing system – this is its proprietary escapement, which it spent seven years and approx. €12m developing with the University of Dresden, which helped mostly on the mathematics front. Making an escapement – the part of the mechanism that gives a watch its heartbeat – is rather a big deal in watchmaking. You get it happening in the higher echelons of the industry – we’re talking the Lange and Sohne’s of this world – but not usually in a watch that’s under three grand. That is something special indeed.
Aside from the swing system, there is the fact that this is a hand-wound movement, which adds a touch of old-school charm to the watch.
The power reserve indicator – that green and red circle just below one o’clock – is on hand to tell you when the watch is running out of power and needs a wind.
Look and feel
Clean, classy and undeniably cool, this is a lovely edition to the Nomos cannon. At 37mm, some men have moaned that it is too small for them, but then no Nomos really looks good on Hulk-like wrist as its designs tend to err towards a more refined rather than chunky aesthetic.
There are also some who prefer it without the power reserve indicator as they think it throws off the dial’s symmetry. But then there’s a Metro for those people too.
As Nomos is all about the Bauhaus – named after the art school in Germany, which was the birthplace of a particular style of design, architecture and art – we would suggest teaming it with a black polo neck and skinny trouser with a flat Mary Jane or maybe a gothic-style dress. Copy of Architectural Review tuck under arm? Optional.
To get the look, click on the board
Need to know
Nomos has launched another must-have watch. It is more detailed than a lot of the brand’s back catalogue and also contains its new swing system. It’s incredible how much watch it has managed to pack into that 37mm case and all for just £2,390.
How can you not love Nomos?
Buy it now: Nomos