Once you get into the heady realms of haute joaillerie, you generally move into a space beyond something so vulgar and pedestrian as “trends”. However, you cannot deny that there are moves towards certain stones or styles that, although not trends in the fashion magazine sense of the word, point towards a certain “mode juste”.
From the mannish simplicity of Chanel, via the winged power of David Marshall or Lalique and the couture influences of Dior to the decadence of De Grisogono and the deep seas of Van Cleef & Arpels, here are five brands that pick up on some of the overriding themes in fine jewellery for this season.
Chanel Coco Crush
Quilting is as inherent to the Chanel maison aesthetic as its double C logo. And it has now migrated from its iconic handbags to this gorgeous collection of rings and bangles. The larger styles can be worn alone, while the thinner ones can be stacked. Opt for just one to make a statement or put one on every finger (though that might be a bit much…). Just make sure you add a piece to your jewellery collection now. You won’t regret it.
David Marshall The Feather Collection
If you’re not familiar with this British designer – why not? He’s is that breed of bona fide designer-makers who knows their way around a bench. And it certainly shows in the exquisite jewellery that his family-owned business produces.
Inspired by the myth of Leda, who was seduced by Zeus in the shape of a swan, these feathery pieces are made from rose or white gold and set with diamonds. It is opulent without looking vulgarly extravagant – the perfect way to wear diamonds.
Dior Soie Dior
Victoire de Castellane cannot be separated from Dior’s jewellery, being there, as she was, at the beginning when the division was announced back in 1998. Having previously cited such diverse things as Alice in Wonderland, the Brothers Grimm, Walt Disney, the excesses of Bollywood and the dark depths of the subconscious as inspiration for her creations, it is safe to say de Castellane doesn’t do polite fine jewellery.
This Soie Dior collection has the ribbon as its primary influence, with its undulations framing the most precious of stones.
De Grisogono India
De Grisogono doesn’t do understated, so India, with its vibrant, colourful culture, was the perfect place for its designers to look for inspiration.
This collection solely comprises earrings but that doesn’t mean the brand has taken the easy way out.
Each pair of these incredible adornments takes seven days to make thanks to the openwork on the back of the earring that holds the cabochons in place but allows the light to filter through.
Decadence has never looked so good.
Van Cleef & Arpels Seven Seas
Van Cleef & Arpels has been worn by icons of style, from Wallis Simpson to Grace Kelly, and it’s not hard to see why. Elegant, but with a cheeky irreverence, and exquisitely made, it says a lot about the woman who wears it but only if you care to look.
This Seven Seas collection is no exception. It is a playful take on a nautical theme that doesn’t resort to the typical anchor and sea creature tropes.
Lalique Vesta collection
Another take on feathers, this time from renowned glass maker and jeweller Lalique. These have a more Art Deco edge, mixing glass with precious metal and stones, giving the fine jewellery a more modern feel. It also gets our vote for including ear cuffs (left) in the collection – they’re our A/W must-have.