Say “Montblanc” and you immediately think of pens, don’t you? That’s nothing to be ashamed of, because, while Montblanc started making writing instruments back in 1906, it wasn’t until 1997 that it dipped its toe in the world of horology.
However, in nearly 20 years, this side of the business has gone from a sideline to an integral part of the Montblanc makeup.
Prior to last year, Montblanc’s women’s watches were demure and pretty, taking Princess Grace of Monaco as their inspiration.
That was until it brought out its Boheme range. As the name suggests this was a collection that ditched the twinset and pearls and threw on a LBD and a pair of heels, aesthetically speaking.
The standout was the perpetual calendar. It was the first time Montblanc had put this complication in a women’s watch and we decided we had to take a closer look.
This watch is a sure sign that Montblanc is finally taking its women’s watches seriously. It is very much a feminine timepiece, rather than one created with one eye on the Asian male market (who apparently like their watches smaller than European men and are not adverse to stone-set bezels). It is also the first time a perpetual calendar has been put in a women’s watch and is one that won’t need any manual adjustment until 2100 (maybe leave a note about that for the grandchildren…)
The movement itself is based on the men’s Meisterstuck Heritage Perpetual Calendar, which caused mutterings when it launched because it was a perpetual calendar for the bargain price of £8,500 – complications such as this usually cause watches to break the £10K barrier.
The diamonds do up the price slightly but it is still only £17,000, which is a lot of horological bang for your buck.
Look and feel
This is a watch that has instant look-at-me appeal. The silver guilloche dial is the perfect counterpoint to the four sub-dials, showing (clockwise from 12) the month and leap year, date, position of the moon and day, while the diamonds on the bezel are noticeable without being garish.
There are also strap options, with white giving the whole thing a more daytime, summery look and the black adding an element of evening glamour.
Multiple sub-dials can lead to a cluttered overall look, but this is perfectly proportioned. It is 36mm so feels substantially elegant and, depending, on the strap colour, this could either be an everyday or an after-dark number.
There is a real transition appeal to this timepiece, so it works well with pieces that have the same versatility. If you’re brave then a jumpsuit, as styled impeccably below by Diane Kruger, is the ideal foil for this watch, or, if that’s a bit too ‘fashion’ for your tastes, then maybe a button-front shirt dress that can be demure or risqué, depending on the amount of buttons you do up…
To get this look, click on the board
Need to know
This is a watch for women who don’t want an ‘either/or’ when it comes to complications and diamond-setting. And it does both very well indeed.
It may seem a little expensive but, when you’re getting stone-set watchmaking that’s this good, it’s £17,000 well spent.
Buy it now: Montblanc